Tuesday, June 29, 2010

To Shimla We Go

How did I end up atop a Himalayan foothill? "Well I'm glad you asked."
(That's always Sam's line, but since he's neglecting to post on this blog, I thought I should interject some of his voice into my own.)

--

It is 8pm on Friday, and we have no travel destination. Yet, we are heading out the door to Delhi's Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT) with our Lonely Planet guide in hand and a backpack for the weekend.

You see, we had booked train tickets to Varanasi online through Tatkal (last minute train tickets you can book 2 days in advance) only to get an automated email from them the night before our scheduled trip telling us that we had successfully canceled our ticket reservations (which we had not!). Needless to say, all five customer service numbers were busy..or if they did ring, nobody answered.. or if somebody did answer, he/she did not speak English.

By now, we are at ISBT and it is a mess. To get tickets for a local bus, one must 'line up' (clutch the person in front of you to make sure nobody cuts) at the counter. We station our friend Sean in line for tickets to Shimla. Sam gets in line for tickets to Chandigarh. We really just want to get out of Delhi for the weekend, and at this point, it doesn't really matter which bus we get on.


Crowds and chaos at the Inter State Bus Terminal.


Bus-ing it like the locals do.

We finally manage to get three bus tickets to Chandigarh, and then it takes us a bit of time to interpret them (local bus tickets come in fifteen different strips of paper with no bus number or time). A 5.5 hour local bus ride (no A/C, no sleeper berths) later, we arrive in Le Corbusier's planned city. As an urban studies major, I am rattling away to Sam and Sean (who probably aren't even listening) about the city plans of Chandigarh, a city modeled to fit India's post-independence democracy. We manage to hop on another local bus that will bring us to Shimla.

By the way, the Lonely Planet is the travel guide to swear by. It's got details about train and bus times down to the bone. Do not go on a destination-less Indian adventure without this baby.

On our way to the Queen of Hill Stations

Shimla was the official summer capital of the British Raj-- Delhi's summer heat just didn't cut it for them. A prominent remnant of the British presence is the Viceregal Lodge (below):


Thank goodness for their decision to establish a summer retreat in the mountains. Today, Shimla is a popular get-a-way for Indians escaping the summer heat. We enjoyed weather of < 30 degrees, and we were shivering! (Hey, when you've been wallowing in 40+ degrees for a month, anything below a 35 feels cool.)

Here are just a few of the things we saw:

For all the fruities of the world...

...and all the sweet-tooths of the world (gulab jamun is hidden in the mix!)

The stray dogs here have thicker hair than in Delhi! Their extra jacket keeps them warm in the winter.

We left tourist-trap-Shima...


...for the road less traveled, and saw much more interesting sights.

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves:









It was a good weekend.

: )
Michelle

Monday, June 28, 2010

A Backpacker's Delight

When we're not at work during the week, we try to make the most out of our time in this delightfully colorful country.


Our day in Agra, Uttar Pradesh, home to the famed Taj Mahal:

Anticipation builds as we squeeze our way past the flood of tourists...


There. It was absolutely stunning beyond all expectations. Unfortunately, the complete beauty of the Taj cannot be captured through a mere photograph-- so you will just have to see it for yourself!

After several unsuccessful attempts, we finally got a group photo in front of the Taj! Fun fact: the girls who took this photograph are now some of our closest friends in Delhi.


Our weekend in Jaipur, Rajasthan, India's most colorful state:

Jaipur is a city of intense color (and shopping!)


Crossing streets in the old city is a bit c r a z y. But once you've mastered the art of crossing Indian roads, you're set for life.

The Amber Fort, one of the highlights of my travels thus far.

Climbing up steps to the fort...

...for some spectacular views


More forting, more climbing, more views...


Stay tuned for more updates on our travels. Photos of Shimla will be up next.


Bye for now,
Michelle

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

New Delhi Railway Station

It's hard to believe that I've been in Delhi for a whole month already! Taking a step back, I'm beginning to realize just how much has happened during this time both in terms of our work with Chintan as well as our life in India. I believe a series of long and thorough updates are in order, but only after this apology: life in Delhi can move pretty fast at times, so when one doesn't stop to look around once in a while, one's bound to miss it. It becomes too easy to get stuck in the routine of 6:30am water tank-filling, 40 km/hr auto rickshaw rides, twice-a-day cups of chai, the daily tiffin lunch, and the necessary post-work shower. Having not written a post since arriving in India is pretty unacceptable, especially given all the new things I'm learning on a daily- no, make it hourly- basis. My hope is to make up for this in the month and a half that I have left here. Now, moving on to the said updates...

I want to dedicate my first post in India to the ball of chaos I'd like to call the New Delhi Railway Station. Sam and I certainly weren't there en route to Agra-- we were there for work, an intensive one-week audit of Chintan's pilot waste collection program at India's busiest train station.



The purpose of the project itself is rather straightforward. Chintan wants its waste-pickers to collect waste from each train arriving and docking at the station. The waste-pickers bring the waste back to the Chintan work station (behind the tracks) and segregate the recyclables before selling them to middlemen junk-dealers for x rupees/kilo. The revenue generated through the sale of water bottles, bottle caps, aluminum tin lunch containers, paper, cardboard, and roti (bread) is then used to cover the costs of building and maintaining the work station site, the waste-pickers' monthly salaries, their uniforms and equipment, etc. It's a relatively simple model of environmentally-responsible micro-waste management, but boy is it one big logistical nightmare! (Just imagine how chaotic an Indian train station can get or see the picture below for a visual reference. It is the norm for trains here to be delayed for 6-7 hours or even for up to a night!)


The first few days of our audit were all about logistics, logistics, logistics. Day and night, we ran back and forth between all 16 platforms counting the number of cars, passengers, and workers per train as well as recording down the passenger to bottle ratios, scheduled vs actual arrival times, and all conflicts and obstructions that were observed. I'd like to call this leg of the project extreme consulting (as in extreme sports). We were behind the tracks, inside the train cabins, and up and down all 16 platforms. There was no time to wipe the sweat off your brow and absolutely no time to return the many stares you get from Indian men (and believe me, as a foreign girl in a salwar you do get plenty!)



Another important component of our initial audit was merely to observe how the work was done. A lot of inefficiencies were discovered during this process. For instance, we timed how long it took for the collected waste to be transported from a train arriving at platform 1 to the workstation located behind platform 16. It took approximately one hour for two waste-pickers to push a barrow cart of garbage bags the distance of 16 platform widths. Bottles kept falling out the bags, the narrow paths were clogged with traffic from other transporters, and in certain bends, rocks had to be cleared by hand just so the cart could pass through. We are now looking into alternative routes for transporting the waste or carts with more utility (ie: walled bins on wheels that the waste-pickers can throw the garbage bags into as opposed to wooden wheel barrows that the garbage bags are strapped to with string).



Other noted observations included the extended length of time it takes for passengers to alight from the sleeper (overnight) cars. Because the waste-pickers can only enter the cars after all passengers have alighted, the time they have to collect from the cars before the train pulls out of the platform is significantly shortened; as a result they are able to collect less recyclable waste to sell. We have suggested increasing the number of workers at the platform of each arriving sleeper train (taking them from the reserve of workers segregating waste at the workstation) to ensure that the maximum amount of waste can be collected.

Towards the end of our initial audit, I was tasked with working out a business model for the project. I did my first ever cost - revenue schedule on an Excel spreadsheet to calculate the surplus/shortfall of the project up to year 1 (and I didn't even need an i-banking internship to learn this!) I was able to project several scenarios for the project aimed at increasing revenue and lowering costs-- this will mainly have to be done through increasing the efficiency of the 60 waste-pickers we currently have at hand. The crux will have to be the strategic deployment of workers to platforms to ensure we are maximizing our volume of recyclables.

Since this post is getting rather long (and this blogger rather sleepy), I'll end with a series of shots taken during our project. After all, a picture is supposedly worth 1,000 words (and with captions probably 1,500!)


The waste-pickers say their uniforms have helped them gain more respect from train personnel, passengers, and the general passerby.


There is a sense of order to the waste we manage (inside). Sam stands outside with a pile of trash that has been dumped irresponsibly by anonymous parties.

Contrast is stark between the professionalism of Chintan's waste-pickers and the lack thereof of individual scavengers. (Chintan screens its workers for a history clean of 'smack' addictions, a rampant problem among waste-pickers)

(1) Bottle caps are removed, (2) remaining water is dumped into a tank to be used for cleaning out food waste from aluminum tin - no waste - (see below), (3) bottle is crushed and set in a bag to be weighed and sold.

Workers cleaning and segregating the aluminum tin from train lunches before leaving them out to dry.

Segregated waste is then weighed and sewed into these white bags before being taken to the junk-dealer.

Our week at the station ended with a delightful surprise from the NYT. It seems that they too had sent representatives of their own to scout out our station while we were there. The article definitely framed our work at the station in a wider, more relevant context:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/06/16/business/global/16indiarail.html



With more to come,
Michelle